Ever wonder how men can squander up the cajones to paddle into waves as large as 5 story buildings?
"Where do you draw the line on what you're doing? As much as you know about it, the more you know about it, the more you know the consequences – the consequences are you're gone forever."
Peaking, the original series by Red Bull, takes a peek inside the mind of 2013 Mavericks Invitational Champion, ASP World Tour webcast host, and Quiksilver team rider/ambassador Peter Mel.
Follow Peter (@petermel) and Quiksilver (@quiksilver) on Instagram
Quiksilver and world-champion surfer, Kelly Slater, have announced they will be discontinuing their 23-year partnership, effective April 1, 2014. Quiksilver has reached many milestones with Slater over the years, including 11 ASP World Titles, countless World Champion Tour victories and collaborations in developing his progressive and successful Quiksilver collection.
Mark Richards was given his first pair of Quiksilver boardshorts in the early 1970s. Quiksilver’s founders Alan Green and John Law custom made Mark a pair of boardies and sent them to him – these were the days before MR was sponsored so he was stoked to receive a free pair of boardies he’d wear all year round.
Over 40 years later Mark is still stoked on surfing, shaping surfboards … and boardshorts. MR shares on his blog and instagram sick photos from back in the day where the wetsuits were a little brighter and the boardshorts were a little shorter.
Check out a few rad vintage shots of MR below.
This was shot in the mid 70's on the cliff at Bells Beach. I was there for the @ripcurl Easter Classic. At the time I was riding boards shaped by Ben Aipa from Hawaii. They were his 'stinger ' models. This one is 6'8", 201/4" wide & 27/8" thick. The rail didn't have the standard round bottom edge through the middle up to the nose. It had a flat 45 degree chime with a hard resin edge on each side of the chime. It ran from the 'stinger' to the nose tip. The board went great , but I think the pervious stingers with a normal rounded bottom edge on the rail felt more forgiving.The 'wettie' was an early prototype with shoulder zips. The other thing that strikes me about this photo is how much hair I had then , I would love to still have that much hair now !!!!!
Photo Dick Hoole.1976. Off The Wall , North Shore , Hawaii. I'm riding a wing pin single fin shaped by Reno Abellira. It's 7'8", 19" wide, & 27/8" thick. I used to get asked a lot how my style evolved & where it came from. or who influenced it.... It came from within me. I've always believed that a persons surfing style is an expression of who you are as a person. Everyone stands, walks, & talks differently & this is reflected in how you surf. I've always focused on turns & I just wanted to come off the bottom & hit the lip hard. The body mechanics & mannerisms just followed. When I was growing up if I admired someone's surfing I always tried to be influenced by the manoeuvres they did or the way they approached a wave . But I always made sure I didn't copy someone else's body mannerisms.
Photo Lance Trout.. Pipeline , 1978. The board is a round pin single fin, 7'4",19" wide & 27/8" thick. I shaped it in Dick Brewers room at Chuns Reef on the North Shore. I first surfed Pipe in 1973 or 1974 & I'd never had an injury or really scary experience there until 1986. The day before the Pipe masters that year on a super low tide I took off on the last wave of a set ,way too late & got pitched with the lip. As I hit the water the wave exploded on me, & I remember thinking , "this isn't going to be good", just before I got driven head first into the bottom on an angle, hitting the reef on the side of my head above my ear. I hit so hard it felt like I'd been wacked by a baseball bat. Got to the surface with my head throbbing & seeing stars. I felt the side of my head to see if it was all still there, it was, total relief, but my hand was instantly covered in blood. I drove back to where I was staying at Sunset Beach to tell my wife I'd hurt myself. She freaked when she opened the door & I'm standing there covered in blood. She drove me straight to the hospital. I ended up spending the day in hospital with concussion, a few major egg size lumps on my head & not much skin left on my ear. To this day I know I'm very fortunate to still be here !!! I lucked out & hit flat reef, If I'd hit a pinnacle or a coral head I would have been royally fucked big time !!!
1985. This is a sequence from yesterday's 6'2" Twin Fin bottom turn post. (For board details see previous post). I'm actually a little embarrassed by the 'wettie' color, Pink arms !!!. It was made by Victory Wetsuits in Japan & I wish I could blame them for the color choice, but that would be a massive fib. Yes , guilty as charged , I picked the colors. ( what the fuck was I thinking ???? ). The only defence I can offer is that in 1985 bright pinks , yellows , oranges , & lime greens were totally acceptable as wetsuit highlight colors. I wouldn't wear a 'wettie' this color now as my current favourite color is Black & Black !!! I shaped , sprayed & glassed this board & I don't still have it. No idea where it is.
Pipeline , North Shore , Hawaii, 1976. This shot was sent to me by Michael Matoi who lives in Hawaii. He didn't know who the photographer was & I haven't seen this photo before. I've never forgotten this day. It was an epic west swell & Pipeline pumped all day. By far the best day of the winter. 10-12' with some bigger sets & a light offshore trade wind. I was there from dawn to dusk , surfing my brains out. Minimal crowd . Around 20 for most of the day. I was riding a Reno Abellira shaped wing pin single fin . 8'0", 19" wide & 3" thick. If you look closely I'm in a 1/2 crouch with my hands behind my back, ( kinda cool ? ) . I'm a million miles ahead of the tube. It would have been an amazing shot if I had been a little deeper & actually been in the tube !!!!
Early 1980's. Shaun Tomsom, Mark Warren, & I on the beach at North Narrabeen. The photo was taken by one of the Sydney daily newspaper staff photographers. It was for a story to publicize the 2SM-Coca Cola Surfabout event. We are all looking at some point or imaginary friend off in the distance. Aussie newspapers seem to love what I call 'The Far Far Away Look' !!! I think these kind of photos look even sillier if the subjects are smiling. I've never understood why they don't want the person looking at the camera. If you look at a mag like Rolling Stone or a surf mag they have amazing portrait & group shots where the person or group is staring straight into the camera lens. It seems like you get so much more of the essence of a person when you can see their eyes looking straight back at you. @markwazza . Mark has a Geoff McCoy single fin , mine is a 6'2" twin fin , & I think Shaun's board was a twin fin shaped by Spider Murphy in South Africa.
Check out MR's instagram and blog.
Who wouldn’t want to take one of Kelly’s boards out for a surf? Jeremy Flores did just that and borrowed one of the Champ’s magic carpets not long ago in Portugal, putting it through the paces in average surf and making us want to go get one of whatever it is. Since then Jeremy’s adjusted his equipment to go shorter and wider and is surfing as loose as ever.
Follow Jeremy Flores and Quiksilver on Instagram.
ASP commissioner, Kieren Perrow, gave the call at 7.30am to kick off Round Four of the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast at 8am sharp with fun conditions coming through at Snapper Rocks.
In heat 1 of the day, Freddy Patacchia was holding the lead over Mitch Crews and Taj Burrow right until the dying minutes where Taj would come up with some last minute heroics, taking the first heat win of the day and sending his to opponents in to Round 5. Next was Brazil's wonder boy, Gabriel Medina who secured the second quarter final spot ahead of defending 2013 world champ, Mick Fanning and Florida's CJ Hobgood in heat 2.
11 times world champion, Kelly Slater, got off to a rocky start and would join heat opponent Josh Kerr in round 5 while Adriano de Souza took his ticket to the Quarter Finals. In the last heat of the round, waves continued to improve and it was local hero Joel Parkinson who charged his way through to the Quarter finals forcing Brazil's Miguel Pupo and 2013 Rookie of the year, Nat Young, to surf again in round 5.
2001 world champion, CJ Hobgood opened up Round 5 against Quiksilver's Freddy Patacchia in a heated exchange and despite showing amazing form through out the contest with some highly seeded defeats, Freddy P missed out on his Quarter final spot by just 0.33 points. The second heat saw Mick Fanning put on a show for the local crowds, dominating the waves coming through and eliminating his local opponent Mitch Crews.
With a quick board change and some wise words from surf legend, Tom Carroll, Kelly Slater was next to reserve his space in the Quarter finals, defeating rookie Nat Young. By now the hindering winds dropped, cleaning up the conditions in time for aerial magicians Josh Kerr and Miguel Pupo to take to the water. Pupo took the win over veteran Josh Kerr to face Joel Parkinson in the Quarter Finals.
With mostly veterans leading the pack, Quarter Final 1 would see Taj Burrow take out CJ Hobgood to bring his podium closer to home, clocking up a 15 point wave total vs CJ's 12.46 total. Heat 2 would see the first major upset of the Quarter Finals with the defeat of Mick Fanning by Gabriel Median who seemed to be perfectly fusing with conditions through out the day's action. The second upset from the Brazilian's came via Adriano de Souza ending Kelly Slater's road to the final and marking his 6th defeat against de Souza. Kelly's post heat reaction mostly put it down to being too impatient when selecting waves whilst his oppenent stayed in sink with the waves on offer.
Claiming the 4th and final spot in this year's Semi Finals, Joel Parkinson defeated Miguel Pupo whilst scoring the highest heat wave total of the Quarter Finals, 17.93. The contest was then put on hold to allow for the Roxy Pro finals to take place where 5 times ASP World Champion Stephanie Gilmore was crowned this years winner.
Australia would take on Brazil in both heats of the Semi Finals. In pumping Snapper Rocks' conditions, Brazil would draw first blood in an extremely close heat seeing Gabriel Medina becoming the first 2014 finalist ahead of Taj Burrow. Fired up to bring it home, Joel Parkinson put Adriano de Souza in combo land and headed back to the beach with 3 minutes still on the clock to get ready for the final.
The 2014 Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast Final was an absolutely explosive 35 minutes of barrels, hacks, broken boards and a fight until the waves. Medina who suffered an injury in this event last year kept his composure against one of his idols growing up and managed to take this year's title and kick off his 2014 ASP World tour with an amazing win. Re-live all the action from Round four through to the finals below:
Visit quiksilver.com/progoldcoast for behind the scenes photos, videos, blogs and more from around the event.